Subscribea few years ago me and a friend were faced with a flat tire :(...we kinda knew what to do or so we thought...when we started to change the tire we found out REAL quick we didn't have a clue what to do...when we finally got home i told my dad that he should be ashamed of himself because he never taught me how to change a tire...now mind you...i knew how to run a screw~driver, swing a hammer, sew, and cook so i was sure i was the total package...ya know jack of all trades...well the ole sayin' is true...jack of all trades...jenny of none :)...i wasn't as well rounded as i thought...my challenge to all the dads, granddads, husbands, brothers, sons, make sure the women in your life knows how to change a flat tire...it doesn't matter if they drive or not...ya never know when it'll come in handy
How to change a Flat Tire
Fix that sinking feeling!
Few people like to change a tire. But if you can follow simple directions, this is a good opportunity to revoke your "mechanically incompetent" status. You'll also save time, money and stress, and your passengers will consider you the greatest thing since sliced bread. With this 2torial you'll be back on the road in a jiffy.
To change a tire (or more accurately, a wheel with a tire on it), you need another to replace it. Many car owners haven't checked the spare since they bought the car.
Take the time to look for your spare tire. Under the floor of the trunk and under the rear of a truck are the usual spots. Whether it's a full-size tire or one of those small, low-quality, high-pressure ones, make sure that it's properly inflated and easily accessible.
While you're exploring the car, check the car's jack as well, especially if you bought the car used. It's not uncommon for the jack to be missing or incomplete. Find that out now, before you need to use it.
Most cars come with a lug nut remover that's nearly useless... it's small, it slips, and it gives you no leverage. Go to an auto supply store and buy one that's shaped like a cross. They generally have three different sized sockets, plus a pry end, and give you a much better shot at removing a frozen wheel lug. Just make sure that one of the sockets fits your wheel's lugs securely before you leave the parking lot.
Find the right spot
While you're doing all this, you'll probably have traffic passing you. Especially if it's nighttime, the oncoming cars will have a hard time seeing you crouched down at the front of the car--so choose your changing spot well. However, the more that you drive on the flat tire, the greater the chance that you'll damage it beyond repair. Look for the first good spot, not the second.
Find a level area where you can work. It's dangerous to jack up a car on a hill or incline.
Find a spot where you can pull the car over, out of the way of traffic. A long, straight stretch of road is better than just around the bend in a road. Traffic will be able to see you, rather than coming upon you unexpectedly.
Turn on your emergency flashers (usually near the steering wheel). Set the parking brake! Put automatic transmission cars in park. Put manual transmission cars (stick shifts) in first or reverse gear. To be really safe, put two bricks or rocks (at least the size of your fist) in front of and behind the tire opposite the flat. This will help keep the car from inadvertently rolling.
If you have a tarp with you, spread it on the ground next to the flat tire. Weigh it down with rocks or heavy objects so the wind won't pick it up. This will give you a clean space to kneel, and place wheel parts. If you have gloves with you,
Get the spare and the jack
You can't remove the old wheel without a jack. The spare is probably right next to it.
The spare tire is usually located in the wheelwell, which is often on the bottom of the side of the car. It's either an indented area or a slot of some kind where the jack is meant to reside. Your owner's manual has a diagram that will locate it for you. Most often, the spare will be held in place by a bracket or a bolt that unscrews by hand pretty easily.
If the jack is located in metal slots, slide it out and make sure that the handle is there as well. Many jack handles double as the lug remover, but if you have a real lug wrench (see above), you won't need to use it as such. Bring them both over to the work area, along with the lug wrench. If you're doing this at night, take care not to lose the jack handle in the dark.
Loosen the lug nuts
If you try to loosen the lug nuts after jacking up the car, the wheel will just spin on you. Loosen those nuts now and make it easier on yourself.
There are generally four or five lug nuts near the center of a wheel. Sometimes they're hidden under a hubcap, or a plate that needs to be pried loose. If this is the case, use the flat end of the lug wrench (or jack handle). Insert it into the slot provided at the edge of the plate, or at the edge of the hubcap. Pry the plate or hubcap off and don't let them roll away. Now that you've removed the hubcap, find the end of the wrench that fits properly. Place it over any of the lug nuts.
Turn counter-clockwise to loosen the nut. Do you have the cross-shaped lug nut wrench? If so, grab the opposite ends of the wrench. Use that leverage to loosen the lug nuts.
Many people have trouble removing very firmly tightened lug nuts. If you're in that situation, here are a few strategies to help loosen them. Steady the wrench with your hand if possible, and step down hard on one end of the wrench with your foot.
Place your foot carefully onto the wrench. Holding onto the car, step with your full weight onto one end of the wrench. Bounce up and down on that end until the nut loosens.
Find a rock. Hammer on the end of wrench with it.
Once the nut has loosend and turns more readily, continue turning the wrench until a few remaining turns with your hand will release it. Repeat the process with the remaining lug nuts. Note: Leave the lug nut on the threaded shaft.
Jack up the car
To get the wheel off, you'll need to raise that corner of the car.
Most often, the spare will be held in place by a bracket or a bolt that unscrews by hand pretty easily.
Raise the jack enough so that it just touches the car. Almost all jacks are raised by inserting the jack handle into a socket on the jack body, and turning the handle. Some jacks are raised with a scissor-type motion. In a scissors-type jack, the socket can be hidden in the center of the jack body, while in others it may be more obvious. Don't worry about holding the jack in place while turning the handle. You can position the jack when it's raised enough to reach the car.
Once the jack is raised enough to touch the car, it's time to position it properly. Each manufacturer has a special place designated for the jack contact--that's the spot where the jack lifts the car. If you have a manual, it should contain this information.
The positions for the jack are usually about 6 to 12 inches behind the front tire, or 6 to 12 inches in front of the rear tire. Search a few inches in from the car's body for the car's sturdy frame, and avoid using the suspension.
Make sure that the jack is flat on the ground. Crank it a few more times to secure it properly.
When you're certain the jack is positioned properly, continue turning the handle so that the car rises off the flat tire. You'll need to fit a fully inflated tire under there, so give it a few extra turns to make sure there's enough room.
Remove the old wheel
You left the nuts on the old wheel, so that you wouldn't lose them. Now it's time to remove them.
Spin all the lug nuts off with your hand, and put them aside (in the hubcap if you have one, or on the tarp).
Grasp the wheel by two sides of the tire (at the three o'clock and nine o'clock positions). Pull the wheel straight out and off. Keep your weight forward or you'll fall backwards and land on your butt. Roll the old wheel to one side.
Put on the new wheel
Holding the spare wheel, try to line up the holes in the center with the threaded shafts that they fit over. Shift and slide the spare wheel over the shafts until it's seated properly, and can't be pushed any farther onto the shafts.
If there's not enough clearance to mount the fully inflated spare tire, put it aside and turn the jack handle a few more times to raise the car body.
The next key step is to tighten the lug nuts in the proper order:
Take the lug nuts and spin them onto the shafts with your hands. Use the lug wrench to turn them so that they all rest against the wheel, but don't tighten them down yet.
Lower the jack so that the tire just rests on the ground.
Tighten one of the lug nuts well. Give it one good turn with the wrench, but don't crank it on. Next, go to the nut opposite to the one that you've just tightened, and tighten in the same way. Tighten the remaining nuts in the same way. If you have five nuts, tighten every other one until they're all tight.
Lower the car and pack it all up
All right, get back on the road!
Turn the jack handle the other way to fully lower the car. As the weight is taken off, the jack will fall over. Lay it on its side and finish turning the handle, until the jack is fully closed.
If the wheel has a hubcap or plate, replace it by holding one edge in place, and banging on the opposite edge with the jack handle, the heel of your hand, or the side of your fist.
Put the old wheel and tire in the spare's compartment, or on the spare's bracket and secure it. Secure the jack and handle to their original location. Throw the tarp in the trunk, and carefully step around to the driver's door. Watch for passing cars!
Reading Your Tires
WOMEN NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CARS IF THEY DRIVE OR NOT :)
When it’s time to replace your tires, you have to know what brand and type you want, as well as their size. This information is printed on the sidewall. Brand name and tire name are easy enough to find -- sometimes they're even printed in raised white letters.
Tire size is measured in a combination of millimeters, letter codes and inches. The size of the tire pictured above is: P205/60SR15. The first letter is "P" for passenger tire. The first number is the tire’s width in millimeters -- in this case 205mm. The second number is its aspect ratio -- the ratio of sidewall height to width (also known as "profile"). In this case the sidewall height is 60 per cent of 205mm -- or 123mm. This tire is speed-rated, so the second letter is the speed rating -- in this case it’s "S" (112 mph).
Speed ratings give a general idea of a tire's overall performance characteristics -- a family sedan needs no more than an "S" rated tire, while a Ferrari will use a "Z" rated tire. Tires with high speed ratings are more expensive and shorter-lived than tires with low speed ratings. Speed ratings use the following letter codes:
The next letter is "R" for radial construction -- a superior design to the bias ply tires of old.
The last number designates the wheel diameter -- this tire mounts on a 15-inch wheel.
Printed together following the size designation. This tire's size is:
Sometimes a load index and a speed rating are p P205/60R15 85S. "85S" means that this tire’s load index is 1135 lbs. and it has a speed rating of "S." This means that four tires can safely carry a maximum weight of 4540 lbs. (4 tires x 1135 lbs.) at 112 mph. This is something most drivers never have to worry about, but here’s a sampling of some load ratings:
Some light truck tires use a different sizing system
This tire's size is LT 31X10.5R15. The first two letters stand for "light truck." The first number is the tire’s diameter in inches -- in this case, 31-inches. The second number is its width in inches, 10.5-inches. The "R" stands for radial. The 15 designates wheel diameter -- this tire is made to fit on a 15-inch wheel.
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The very small type on the tire's sidewall contains the following information:
Uniform Tire Quality Grades are also printed on the sidewall. These grades are a result of government mandated tests that measure treadwear, traction and temperature resistance. The actual testing and grading is done by the manufacturer, so take these ratings with a grain of salt.
Treadwear measures how long the tread should last compared with a reference standard of 100. A treadwear rating of 400 means that the tread wears four times as well as the standard. This grade is only accurate for comparing tires within a certain brand.
Traction is a measurement of a tire's ability to stop in a straight line on a wet road. The highest grade is AA; A is good; B is intermediate; and C is the worst.
Temperature measures a tire’s ability to withstand the heat build up caused by prolonged high speed driving, underinflation, or overloading. The highest grade is A; B is intermediate; and C is the worst.
M + S: Means the tire has the minimum required mud and snow traction.
Maximum Load: Maximum weight that the individual tire can support -- shown in pounds or kilograms.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: Shown in psi (pounds per square inch) or kPA (kilopascals). Never inflate your tires over the maximum inflation pressure.
D.O.T. Serial Number: Shows compliance with Department of Transportation regulations along with the coded name of the tire manufacturer and the place and date of manufacture. The date of manufacture is shown by the last three digits of the serial number -- if it ends in 405, that means the tire was made in the fortieth week of 1995. Because rubber can dry out and deteriorate, tires that are extremely old can be more prone to failure than newer tires.
Tire Construction: Shows the number and type of plies (interwoven belts) which make up the tire's tread and sidewall.
Change Your Own Oil
"Forty bucks for an oil change!?!"
"Forty bucks for an oil change!?!"
Yes folks, forty bucks buys a whole lot of cornflakes. That's one of the major reasons why so many people change their own oil. There's a small initial investment for supplies, but you'll make that back the first time you do it yourself. Just ask your Great-Uncle Leopold if he ever had a stranger change his jalopy's oil, then watch his face change color three times in twenty seconds as he realizes that you're serious.
"Does my oil even need to be changed?" you ask. Manufacturer's recommendations are once every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, depending on the car. Most folks change it once every 6,000 miles. Conventional wisdom says that changing more often is better, but some experts now disagree.
Changing oil can be a messy job, so wear old clothes and have some hand cleaner handy. Make sure that your car is parked on a level grade, rather than on any sort of hill or inclined driveway. You'll need some place to take your old oil, so call a few gas stations or town hall to find out who recycles used oil.
Warm oil drains more easily than cold oil, so run your engine for just a few minutes before you start. But be very careful: Don't let the oil get too hot, as some may splash on you.
Choose your oil
Motor oils are defined by grade. Today's oils are generally multi-grade, which means that they are suitable for use in a range of temperatures.
For instance, when an oil is specified as "10W40," the first number is a measure of viscosity (resistance to flow) at lower temperatures, while the second number is a measure of viscosity at higher temperatures. A rating of "5W30" would indicate an oil that flows more easily at both low and high temperatures than a "10W40." In short, the higher the grade, the thicker the oil.
Many people prefer heavier oil (greater viscosity) for protection in hot weather and lighter oil (lower viscosity) for use in freezing temperatures. The best selling grades in the U.S. are 5W30 and 10W30 oils. If you're still unsure, read over the owner's manual again or consult a local mechanic.
Position the car
Again, make sure that you're on level ground, and that there are no cats sitting on top of your nice, warm engine block.
Set the metal ramps in front of your front tires, and drive your car up onto them. It can help to have a friend around to tell you when to stop.
Set your emergency brake. If you have a manual transmission, put the car in first gear. If you have an automatic, set it to Park. Place the wheel blocks under the rear wheels to prevent any chance of the car rolling back.
Drain the old oil
Again, watch out for hot oil! It's not a bad idea to wear safety glasses or even prescription glasses.
Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on the underside of the oil pan.
Place the shallow pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. (If the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy) and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
Change the filter
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. Clean oil + a dirty filter = dirty oil.
You'll be able to access the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
The old filter may stick initially, but will then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It will be full of oil. Dip your fingertip in the old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner). Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will contact the metal engine surface. Screw the new filter in with your hand, and tighten it firmly without overtightening--one quarter turn after snug.
Finish it up
You're almost home! All you have to do is add the new oil and clean up.
On top of the engine you'll find a knob that says "oil." Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of the knob if it's not obvious. Save the bottles for the disposal of the old oil. Screw the knob back on and wipe the area clean with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some seepage at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the ramps. Pour the oil out of the pan, and using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers. Take the used oil to the motor oil recycler that you found (you did find one, right?).
Note:
Don't under any circumstances pour the oil down a drain, or in the street, or put it anywhere but in a proper recycling area. Poorly placed oil can be a serious environmental hazard